Daily Front Row

2012 January 24

Paris Couture: Giambattista Valli, Alexis Mabille

Comments | | Print

Giambatista Valli Paris Haute Couture Spring 2012
FirstView View Gallery

(PARIS) Giambattista Valli
Valli girls in search of grandeur got their fair share of pomp and circumstance at the Hôtel de Crillon last night as Giambattista Valli wrapped up the evening with his second collection in the esteemed couture coterie. Salma Hayek, Lee Radzill (Jackie O's sis!), and Diane Kruger mugged for the photogs pre-show, but all were stunned into awe-inspired silence when a fresh-faced model sashayed down the catwalk clad in a creme crepe cape, festooned with 3-D buds. A slew of winter white peplum skirt suits and floral appliqués frocks followed in step. Chalk one up for elegant daywear. As for the nighttime ensembles, it was all drame, all the time. In particular, a hydranga print ruffle ball gown and a sheer polka-dot stunner with an asymmetrical puff sleeve. Or any number of draped Grecian gowns in raspberry and plum with bows, roses, and draping galore. The overall message: Valli has arrived.

Alexis Mabille 
Forget floral motifs or the flight of fancy dress—Alexis Mabille went for all of the above (and more) with a couture cadre of mods masquerading as blossoms. Saturated hues spanned the color wheel, ranging from frothy head-to-toe seafoam, to monochrome emerald, to a couple turns in the citrus family. More was more—cue the bows, sheen-drenched materials, full and flared skirts, peals of tulle, and patches of lace—but with a slightly defter touch. It’s a bit tricky to even digest the overload, though, given the painted visages and enormous petal-strewn explosions atop the coifs. But given the drama and that only-at-couture delight factor? A distraction that's definitely all for the best.